Tuesday, March 16, 2010

It's the Shire! A Pilgrim's weekend in Espain

some bird feathers along the Camino de Santiago


I've had a very spritual and tranquil weekend, especially by Spanish standards. For one thing, I did not go out and botellon (drink in public) or go clubbing and bar hopping. Instead I opted to stay in reading and relaxing in my pyjamas. For another thing, I spent Friday and Saturday on day trips to religious sites in our area: the Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos, and saturday walking a segment of the Camino de Santiago, or, Way of St. James.
Here, have some photos of the Camino before I continue:


Allright, moving on:


The monasterio is located in a quiet, semi-residential part of town, a stone's throw from my house. I've often walked past it myself and I've always loved how much it reminds me of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. The 12th Century architecture certainly reminds one of Harry Potter, and the gnarly, knobbly trees that line the garden bring to mind the Whomping Willow. Obviously, having walked by this place and imagined myself on a broomstick, I was delighted that I would have the time on Friday to take a guided tour. Oh yeah, and that my university would reimburse me for the (cheap) admission fee.


The guided tour takes you through the majority of the monastery, and explains its history in brief. The monastery was founded in 1187 by King Alfonso VIII and his wife Leonor de Plantagenet. The project was actually an antiquated feminist campaign on the part of Leonor, who wanted the monastery to serve as a place where women had as much responsibility and respect as men within the Church. I won't spoil other details for you, though I highly recommend the tour. It was brief and informative, and even if you don't understand Spanish, it's worth getting a peek at the monastery.


On Saturday, I took a day trip with my university program to Fromista and Castrojeriz, two points along the Way of St. James. The Camino de Santiago starts in France and ends Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It's over 1000 years old and one of the ONLY pilgrimage routes in Europe that was not discontinued during the Protestant Reformation, war, and the Black Plague. The Camino began as a route to the supposed burial site of the apostle James and is still thriving a millenium later, sometimes as a cheap and adventurous spring break trip for European students.



On the way, you'll see medeival churches, pilgrim albergues, or lodgings, and pilgrims bearing a concha. The concha--or scallop--shell is the ultimate pilgrim accessory. It's the icon of the Camino and is often worn as a necklace or affixed to the clothing/bags of a pilgrim. For me, though, the best part was being outdoors in early spring weather, and taking pictures of what looked like the Shire from Lord of the Rings. I guess everywhere I go in Spain, I make a literary reference.










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